** Not for those who re-twist their locs with locing gel **

1. Be skeptical about advice from others – there is a lot of bad information out there, especially from salons.

2. Wash 1-2 times per week with a shampoo that’s on our recommended list (listed below)

3. Separate dreadlocks at the roots to prevent dreadlocks from growing together

4. Palm roll dreadlocks when damp for the first 6 months (only necessary if you want to reduce loops, bumps, and fuzz)

5. Safely crochet once every 2-3 months (the frequency may vary – it is a matter of preference but not more often than once per month)

6. Avoid over-maintenance, waxes, conditioners, “locing gels”, rubber bands, bleach, most shampoos, ponds, lakes, and be sure to use baking soda properly.

QUICK NAVIGATION

• Introduction
• Be Skeptical
• Products
  • 0-6 Months
  • 6 months and older
  • What to avoid
• Wash Routine
  • Wash frequency
  • Washing mistakes
• Deep Cleanse
• Maintenance
  • Separate dreadlocks
  • Palm rolling
  • Avoid over maintenance
• What to avoid
  • Ponds, lakes, rivers
  • Using baking soda wrong
  • Rubber bands
  • Scissors
  • Cutting loops
  • Interlocking
  • Bleach/dye
• Other tips
  • Benefits of sea salt
  • Beads to control loops
  • Using string to your advantage
  • Sleeping with dreadlocks

INTRODUCTION

Our Aftercare Guide is useful for anyone who crochets, backcombs, interlocks, or freeforms their dreadlocks however it is specifically designed for our clients after crocheted maintenance, installation, or extensions.

Please read over this entire guide so you have a full understanding of everything that is involved. This guide is fully conclusive and will outline just about every detail you need to know about caring for your dreadlocks.

BE SKEPTICAL

A lot of people (including salons) are poorly educated or just completely uneducated about dreadlocks.

Many salons will tell you to do certain things despite not having the experience or knowledge of how to deal with your specific hair type or your original method of installation. We get most of our business from these situations where we fix problems that other salons create in the first place!

Another thing to consider is that many individuals and YouTubers are speaking from their own experience and fail to understand varying hair types, methods, and other factors. We suggest only taking advice from professionals who have used the methods you use and have dealt with multiple clients and not just their own dreadlocks.

PRODUCTS

The products you chose can make a HUGE difference in your dreadlock experience.

To learn more about the details of why certain things are bad in shampoos you can visit our Shampoo Guide here. However, for the sake of simplicity, we recommend using one of the shampoos listed below according to your dreadlock age.  We recommend sticking with this short list and avoiding 99% of other shampoos.

WHAT TO AVOID

Do not use baking soda in place of shampoo!!!

Baking soda is a very harsh substance for your scalp and your hair. It strips everything and leaves no natural oils behind, therefore it’s only recommended for use during a Deep Cleanse. You can inflict a lot of damage to your scalp and hair with baking soda which is likely to lead to breakage!

Do not use just any shampoo

Most shampoos on the market contain a variety of ingredients that are likely to build up inside your dreadlocks. We HIGHLY recommend sticking with the shampoos listed above. You can read more about details about ingredients and specific shampoos with our Shampoo Guide.

Do not use conditioner

Using a conditioner is the absolute last thing you want to do if you want your dreadlocks to mature properly!

Conditioners are mainly designed to prevent knots from forming, yet knot formation is the entire goal for dreadlocks. A dreadlock is a large collective mass of knots and using a conditioner can dramatically slow down or even prevent the locking process!

Do not use wax, especially beeswax

Wax is 100% unnecessary for dreadlocks. Certain waxes can act as lubricants and actually slow down the locking process. Other waxes can hold moisture and shampoo residue inside the dreadlocks which can lead to mold and mildew often referred to as “dreadrot”.

WASH ROUTINE

Some people have the assumption that you “don’t wash your hair” to get dreadlocks couldn’t be further from the truth!

The cleaner and dryer your hair is the quicker it will tighten and mature, therefore washing on a regular basis is very necessary.

The importance of how often you wash

Your scalp produces sebum, which is basically natural oils which can become waxy and almost flaky. Sebum is completely normal and healthy, but too much or too little of it can dramatically affect your scalp.

When you wash your normal hair every single day what you’re doing is constantly stripping the natural oils from your scalp. As a result your scalp produces a heavy amount of oils to compensate leaving you in the vicious commercial shampoo cycle. Therefore, when you first get dreadlocks you must slowly decrease the frequency of your wash routine so that your scalp can readjust itself to a natural production.

Basically, the early stages of your dreadlock journey will involve more frequent washing and as your dreadlocks get older you can wash less frequently.

WASH FREQUENCY BY AGE

0-6 Months – 1-2 times per week

Washing more frequently in the beginning will keep your hair and scalp free of oils allowing it to knot up quicker and tighter. Just be sure to give your dreadlocks enough time to fully dry between washes. If you wash once every 3 or 4 days you’ll be perfectly fine! However, once a week is perfectly acceptable as well.

6-12 Months – wash weekly

At this point your dreadlocks should be reasonable tight and washing once a week is completely reasonable.

1 Year plus – weekly or bi-weekly

Your dreadlocks should be approaching maturity by this point. Typically 2 years is considered mature. At this point you can stretch your washing frequency to once every 2 weeks. Just be careful about stretching your wash frequency too far because you can end up having too much oil and sebum building up on your scalp.

WASHING MISTAKES TO AVOID

Do not wash everyday, or every other day.

It is important to give your dreadlocks at least one full day to dry. Even if you think your dreadlocks are dry there’s a very good likelihood that they’re still damp inside. Thick mature dreadlocks can take as long as 2 or 3 days to fully dry with some hair types. Thinner and younger dreadlocks will dry quicker. Also, climates with very high humidity will take much longer to dry as well.

Do not stop washing and do not wait 2-3 months to wash.

Washing too infrequently can lead to a buildup of natural oils and sebum on your scalp and in your dreadlocks. If you experience this it is highly recommended that you do a Deep Cleanse and start washing more frequently.

Do not aggressively scrub your scalp

Aggressively scrubbing your scalp is a quick way to get fuzzy roots. The same goes for aggressively scrubbing the length of your dreadlocks. Treat your dreadlocks like a sponge or a mop, you squeeze shampoo in and squeeze it back out until it washes clean. No need to aggressively scrub.

DEEP CLEANSE

We recommend doing a deep cleanse every 3 or 4 months. Learn all of the details and follow the step by step process with our Deep Cleanse aka Dread Cleanse Guide here.

MAINTENANCE

New dreadlocks require the most maintenance. In fact, younger dreadlocks require more maintenance if you want them to tighten quickly while continuing to look as neat as possible.

Pull dreadlocks apart if they start to grow together

• This is the most basic necessity
• Do this after every wash, be sure to pull any hair apart that connects 2 or more dreadlocks together
• If you let this go for too long, your dreadlocks may grow together to the point where you cannot get them apart – separate regularly to avoid this problem

Palm roll dreadlocks when they are damp (only for the first 6 months)

• Your dreadlocks will dry faster because water is squeezed out
• Will reduce fuzziness of the dreadlock
• Palm Rolling can reduce loops and bumps
• Will help tighten the knots within the dreadlocks which helps with maturing
• Avoid obsessive palm rolling – 1-2 times per week after washing is sufficient

Avoid obsessive over-maintenance

• Any over-maintenance can lead to damaging hair
• Palm roll after washing 1-2 times per week
• Root rub no more than 2 times per month
• Crochet no more than once per month

WHAT TO AVOID

Learning what NOT to do is just as important as learning what to do. I have seen many mistakes made by people who are just starting out due to either having zero information to guide them or listening to poor advice from individuals who THINK that they know what they’re doing.

Prevent lint by avoiding organic material

• Organic material such as wool or cotton may embed into your dreadlocks
• Ideally you’d want to avoid these materials touching your dreadlocks, especially when the color is bright and vibrant because it will be very noticeable
• If your hair is black and you accumulate lint that is black, it’s not a big deal, but most people would want to avoid lint entirely
• Use synthetic and silky material instead of organic material

Avoid swimming in ponds, lakes, rivers, creeks

• Algae and other microscopic creatures can get in your dreadlocks
• This does not necessarily mean you can NEVER do this, it is simply something to avoid
• If you do this for an extended period of time, it’s recommended that you do a deep cleanse

Use baking soda properly

• Baking soda is a VERY HARSH substance that is extremely alkaline which can destroy your hair if used improperly
• DO NOT wash with baking soda regularly even if you think you’re diluting it enough
• ONLY use baking soda when performing a deep cleanse
• ALWAYS, and I mean ALWAYS rinse with a 50/50 Apple cider vinegar and water mixture to neutralize the effects of the baking soda
• For a deeper understanding read our Dread Cleanse Guide here!

Avoid rubber bands

• Rubber bands can be useful, although unnecessary, and they often create problems
• If used, do not tie them tightly – you want the rubber bands to be loose enough to allow the hair to slightly move underneath
• If used, do not leave in for more than one week
• Long-term rubber band use can lead to weak spots or a gooey substance that gets embedded within your dreadlock – and nobody wants that!
• Learn the details with our Rubber Band Post here.

Avoid using scissors

• Cutting hair can be very risky
• Each dreadlock holds its strength with individual hairs
• Cutting can create thin spots if you’re not using common sense

DO NOT cut loops

• ABSOLUTELY DO NOT DO THIS!!!
• Cutting a loop can dramatically weaken the dreadlock
• It’s very possible for that weak spot to break of entirely over time
• You need the hair within the loop to keep the dreadlock strong
• Those loops can be crocheted
• If left un-crocheted they will mature over time and likely turn into bumps

Avoid interlocking

• More often than not, interlocking causes problems
• However, some people can get away with it just fine
• We advise people to avoid it entirely
• Interlocking tends to create a braided effect or a giant knot effect and does not create a true dreadlock
• The use of interlocking can also split the root which will hinder the locking process
• Interlocking can also create weak spots which may lead to dreadlocks breaking off at the interlocking point
• Learn more about interlocking and why we are so strongly opinionated against it with our Interlocking Post.

Avoid bleach and certain dyes

• Bleach is one of the most damaging things you can do to your hair
• Many dyes that lighten hair are also damaging in the same way
• In order for bleach and lightening dyes to work your individual hair must be stripped of the outer sheath – this effectively weakens the hair strand
• If you bleach or dye your dreadlocks we suggest the following:
  • Only bleach or dye the outside of the dreadlock
  • DO NOT try to penetrate the dreadlock with bleach or dye
  • Wash with extreme thoroughness
  • Rinse out the bleach or dye and then rinse some more and once you think it’s all out, rinse some more…

OTHER TIPS

Swim in the ocean or a sea salt pool

• I’ve found this to be one of the most effective ways to tighten dreadlocks
• Alternatively, you can create a sea salt soak with water, sea salt, and a container
• We don’t recommend using sea salt sprays because you’re simply coating the exterior of the dreadlock which will do very little to help tighten it and it may lead to frizziness with zero benefit – honestly it’s a waste of time a money

Use beads to control loops and bumps

• This can be extremely effective at controlling your dreadlocks
• Slide a bead tightly over a loop or bump to contain it
• Leave the bead in for as long as necessary
• Typically wearing a bead 2-4 weeks is long enough depending on the age

Use string to wrap down the length of a dreadlock

• This can sometimes help with fuzzy dreadlocks
• It will also help maintain the form to some degree

Sleep with an acrylic beanie, a DreadSock, or something similar

• This can help keep dirt and lint out
• This also prevents dreadlocks from falling in your face if you change positions in bed

The post Aftercare Guide – What to do after your appointment appeared first on Dreadlock Central.

What you’ll learn in this article (nav links):

What is Dreadlock Dandruff?
Causes of Dandruff with Dreadlocks?
How to fix Itchy Scalp with Dreads?

What exactly is Dreadlock Dandruff and Sebum?

DANDRUFF

Dandruff is an waxy, flaky shedding of skin and oil from the scalp that is mainly caused by an overreaction to yeast found on the skin. This overreaction leads to an overproduction of oils causing irritation and oily, waxy flakes. Many people think Dreadlock Dandruff is solely caused by a dry scalp but that’s not the case at all. In fact using too much product on your scalp (although moisturizing) can suffocate your scalp and lead to other dandruff issues!

SEBUM (pronounced see-bum)

It’s also important to understand what Sebum is for the sake of this article since Sebum and Dandruff go hand in hand. Sebum is the oily substance that is secreted by the sebaceous glands in your scalp. Sebum production is a process that helps moisturize the hair and skin naturally. The Sebum then combines with dead skin cells, sweat, and dirt. An effective shampoo will effectively bind with this mixture and remove it when you wash the shampoo out.

YEAST (aka Malassezia)

Malassezia is a naturally occurring microbe that feeds on the natural oils (sebum) of the scalp. It’s important to clarify that Sebum in general is not the enemy and not the issue you want to attack. The yeast that feeds on the sebum is the enemy and the overproduction of Sebum simply makes matters worse. However a balanced production of Sebum will give you a healthy and well balanced moisturized scalp naturally.

This is why ingredients like Sodium Lauryl Sulfates in Shampoos have been under scrutiny, powerful ingredients like SLS removes far too much sebum from the scalp resulting in your scalp overcompensating and producing even more Sebum in a short amount of time. This leads to overuse of shampoo and dread dandruff issues if you stop using it abruptly locking you into the vicious shampoo cycle.

Another thing to consider is that Dandruff can potentially lead to hair loss because the sebum is excreted through the same pore that the hair is contained in. When sebum is overproduced and not removed from the pore it can lead to inflammation and scarring, which can lead to hair loss. This can also lead to Sebum buildup in dreadlocks that we see all too often.

What causes Dandruff with Dreads?

Dandruff has a wide range of causes and also many issues which exaggerate dandruff symptoms. Once you read through these points you’ll start to understand a domino effect which may be taking place leading to your Dreadlock Dandruff issues. Following these points we will give you a handful of practical solutions to implement into your lifestyle for Dandruff-free Dreads.

SEBUM BUILDUP

It’s important to first understand and gain control of any overproduction of Sebum. This overproduction can be caused by many different factors in the diet, digestion, stress, and hormones in your body. Controlling any overproduction of sebum will help to reduce the yeast buildup which will help reduce Dandruff with Dreads.

YEAST OVERGROWTH

Malassezia is the naturally occurring fungi (the yeast) that feeds on the Sebum. Generally speaking an over supply of sebum then results in yeast overgrowth. The second part of this process is to reduce this yeast growth by keeping your scalp at a healthy pH level, more on that in the points that follow.

OLEIC ACID SENSITIVITY

The yeast that feeds off the sebum then produces oleic acid as a waste byproduct. The oleic acid then causes more skin cells to flake off resulting in added flakiness of your scalp. Therefore, an overproduction or sensitivity to oleic acid will likely result in Dreadlock Dandruff. This is the final and main contributor of dandruff because approximately 50% of the population is sensitive to oleic acid.

POOR DIET

Diets high in processed foods, sugars, yeast, and unhealthy fats can lead to changes in hormones that trigger higher sebum and oil production. Alternatively, foods high in vitamin D and omega-3 fatty acids improve skin health. A good multivitamin may improve your Dreadlock Dandruff experience.

POOR DIGESTION & NUTRIENT ABSORPTION

In addition to consuming a healthy diet, some people cannot absorb the nutrients properly resulting in a shift in hormones as well. If you’re dealing with any type of digestive issues such as acid reflux, leaky gut, candida, sibo, food sensitivities, or ibs, it’s likely that your digestion isn’t working at it’s full capacity and you’re lacking nutrients and minerals that contribute to a healthy oil production of your scalp.

CHRONIC STRESS

Stress doesn’t necessarily cause Dandruff with Dreads but it can make dandruff symptoms worse. Long periods of stress weakens the natural defenses of the body resulting in a lesser ability to deal with the yeast that causes dandruff in the first place.

HORMONES

As stated in the diet and digestion points above, your oil production is controlled by your hormones.

HIGH PH LEVELS

When your scalp is a healthy pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 it is slightly acidic which helps to kill off yeast and bacteria. Therefore, a healthy pH range will contribute to a normalized level of Yeast on your scalp reducing the likelihood of Dandruff with Dreads. Unfortunately, many people experience higher pH levels due to a variety of factors allowing an overgrowth of yeast which are outlined below.

HARD WATER (high PH)

The pH of your water plays a much more important role than you probably realize. Water is typically considered hard at a pH of 8.5 and considered soft at a pH of 6.5 yet a healthy pH of your scalp should be 4.5-5.5.

Hard water combined with high pH in a poorly formulated shampoo can lead to dandruff, breakage, and other problems with your hair and scalp over time.

DISCONTINUED USE OF CONDITIONER WITH NEW DREADLOCKS

Conditioners are typically designed to be acidic in order to bring the pH level of your scalp back to healthy levels after using an alkaline shampoo. But since conditioners prevent knots from forming and also build up in dreadlocks they are not recommend for dread use. The discontinued use of Conditioners then allows your scalp to remain at a higher pH level from due to shampoo, hard water, and other external factors.

CASTILE SOAPS (high PH)

Castile soaps and ‘shampoos’ formulated with Saponified Oils tend to be high in pH and are also very poor at cleaning the hair in hard water and can also leave film coating on the hair. Even when Castile Soaps are diluted properly with tap water the pH will still be too high, they must be diluted properly with purified water to strive for an ideal pH level. This double-whammy of hard water and high pH Castile Soap can be avoiding by simply using a proper shampoo instead. You can learn more details with our post on why we recommend avoiding Castile Soaps for your Dreadlocks.

FREQUENT BAKING SODA USE (high PH)

Every now and then we come across someone using baking soda and Apple Cider Vinegar to replace their shampoo. Baking soda is EXTREMELY harsh on your scalp and should only be used as a Deep Cleanse no more than 4 times per year. It’s also important to understand that you should never combine baking soda and ACV together, they should be used in sequence with each other. The baking soda is harsh with an extremely high pH level and it strips dirt from the hair and scalp and the ACV must be used afterwards to restore the pH back to healthy levels. Mixing these two together cancels them out and renders them relatively ineffective.

Learn how to use this powerful combo properly with our ACV and Baking Soda Dread Cleanse Guide.

SHAMPOO WITH HIGH PH

The pH level of your shampoo is just one more piece of this crazy pH puzzle. The majority of shampoos are formulated at a higher pH level than they should be for your scalp. Determining that level is difficult since most shampoos do not list the pH level of their product. Another thing that makes determining pH of shampoo difficult is that paper pH strips are not very accurate. So a more precise tool such as a digital pH meter is required to measure accurately.

SODIUM LAUREL SULFATES (SLS) AND POWERFUL SURFACTANTS

Shampoos that have strong surfactants such as Sodium Laurel Sulfate are too powerful for normal washing of your scalp. These powerful ingredients strip so much oil from your scalp that it causes an unnatural imbalance and your scalp overproduces Sebum to compensate. So you may experience dry itchy scalp after the oils have been stripped and then oily flaking when your scalp pumps out extra Sebum to compensate.

SHAMPOO WITH EXTRA INGREDIENTS

Unnecessary ingredients can contribute to Dandruff with Dreads. Shampoos with silicone coat the hair which can unnaturally lock in the oil and Sebum. Parabens in shampoo can mimic estrogen which may throw your hormones off and lead to Dandruff issues. And other ingredients may throw your scalp out of whack. Some people are also sensitive to some ingredients and are not even aware of it causing contact dermatitis which may be confused with dandruff.

WASHING INCONSISTENCY

Some people are under the misconception that you cannot or should not wash dreadlocks. This is a horribly inaccurate misconception, as dreadlocks certainly should be washed. Some people wash their dreadlocks too frequently and others don’t wash often enough, or even at all.. Shampooing too frequently can lead to dryness and irritation. On the other hand, washing too infrequently will lead to Sebum buildup over time for most people and it is likely to lead to excessive yeast growth.

It’s important to find a wash frequency that works well for your scalp and with the shampoo you’re using. It’s also important to adjust your frequency gradually since the Sebum production of your scalp changes slowly. The most common wash cycle for dreadlocks tends to be once per week, which is what we recommend in most cases. If your dreadlocks are brand new however, we recommend twice per week. Washing this frequently is not an option for those who twist their dreadlocks which is part of the reason why we recommend crocheting dreadlocks over twisting dreadlocks, learn more about the Crochet Method here.

NEW DREADLOCKS

Getting new dreadlocks, especially ones that are professionally installed, will leave some people feeling very itchy and in some cases flaky. Even if you’ve never dealt with dandruff in the past then your new dreadlocks may cause some itching. This happens because of a major shift in wash frequency, changing shampoo, lack of conditioner, a general shock to the scalp, and for people using the twisting method with lots of product it can be a buildup of too much product suffocating the scalp.

FRESH MAINTENANCE

For some people it’s common to experience an itchy scalp right after a fresh maintenance. This is simply part of the maintenance process and something you’ll have to deal with to some extent.

TENSION ON THE DREADLOCKS

This specific cause is based in experience only. It seems that when the dreadlocks are braided or tied tightly and there is tension on the scalp that dandruff symptoms tend to get worse in those areas. Very long heavy dreadlocks could also contribute to this type of tension and dandruff.

If your dreadlocks are always braided or tied up tightly try going without for a week or two to see if it relieves your dread dandruff issues. If you have very long dreadlocks are OK with cutting some length, it might be worth considering.

DEHYDRATION OR DRY WINTER AIR

Dehydration may lead to a dry itchy scalp with dreadlocks but isn’t necessarily dandruff per se. If you’re dealing with very dry dandruff issues this may be a simple solution but if you’re experiencing an oiliness with your itchy scalp then it’s most likely a Sebum issue and not a dry scalp issue.

YOUNG AGE AND DANDRUFF – OLD AGE AND DRY SCALP

For those who experience dandruff, younger people are likely to experience it the most since puberty and teenage years contribute to drastic hormonal changes. Old age may also contribute to higher cases of dryer scalps but lower cases of dandruff since sebum production decreases as we age.

OTHER SCALP CONDITIONS

Skin conditions such as psoriasis, contact dermatitis, and eczema may be confused with dandruff or make Dread Dandruff worse.

How to understand the difference?

Dandruff results in loose flakes of skin that are typically white in color. Mild itching is common but not severe and accompanied by oiliness.

Eczema, similar to dandruff, is typically a greasy scaling on the scalp. The key indicator of eczema is that it is often red and inflamed accompanied by yellowish flakes with more server itching and can also show up in other parts of your body. Eczema is basically a more exaggerated version of dandruff.

Psoriasis is characterized by thick, red, scaling plaques and commonly present in other areas of the body such as elbows, knees, back, hands, and legs.

Sebo-psoriasis is generally considered an overlap of seborrheic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis.

Contact Dermatitis is caused when the skin is inflamed and scaly due to an allergic reaction typically caused by chemicals in hair dye, shampoo, conditioner, and other products.

If you believe you have a condition other than mild dandruff we highly recommend doing more reading on the other conditions listed above and contacting your dermatologist.

SIMPLIFIED CONCLUSION:

High Sebum Levels

mainly due to Hormones

poor diet/digestion/stress/poor washing/age

+

Yeast overgrowth

mainly due to high pH levels

hard water/shampoo/castile soaps/lack of conditioner

=

Itchy Dreadlock Dandruff

How to fix Dandruff and Itchy Scalp with Dreads?

FIX YOUR DIET, DIGESTION, AND HORMONES

Eating a healthier diet is a great first step to improving dandruff issues and life as a whole. Also, taking a well formulated multivitamin can make an impact. My personal favorite is Legion -Triumph Multivitamin. This supplement contains high levels of MSM and Biotin and really makes a huge difference in how fast my dreadlocks grow.

Working with a digestive specialist can make significant improvements in your digestion and nutrient absorption. I personally work with Christina, an enzyme specialist in the Columubs, Ohio area. She also works online with patients throughout the country. I recommend her if you’re seeking a greater understanding of your digestion issues. You can learn more about her at her website here. https://thatenzymelady.com/

REDUCE STRESS TO IMPROVE HORMONE LEVELS

Reducing stress is beneficial for just about every aspect of our lives and will help tame Dreadlock Dandruff. In our modern society we live unnaturally fast paced lives which lead to chronic stress and fatigue. This hectic lifestyle reduces our body’s ability to handle issues such as dandruff.

Strive for more of the following:

• Laugh and Smile
• Meditate
• Yoga
• Exercise
• Reduce Caffeine Intake
• Deep Breathing
• Time with loved ones
• Pets
• Cuddling
• Hugging
• Relaxing music
• Mindfulness
• Lavender, Chamomile, and other diffused oils
• Healthy Diet and Supplementation
• Avoiding Procrastination

APPLE CIDER VINEGAR RINSE (or other acid) FOR PH ISSUES

An acidic rinse is often used to properly balance the pH level of your hair and scalp back to healthy levels. A healthy scalp pH will fight off the overgrowth of yeast and reduce dandruff symptoms.

With Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) at a pH of 3.1-5 it may be too acidic. It’s important to get the combination right. A 50/50 mix of water and ACV is usually the perfect ratio to restore the proper pH of your scalp.

DEEP CLEANSE

Doing a deep cleanse will help remove sebum and product buildup from your scalp. This should give your scalp a fresh reset leaving your scalp and dreadlocks squeaky clean and pH balanced. It’s important that you only do a deep cleanse a few times per year as the baking soda is very hard on your hair. And you must always follow up with an ACV rinse. You can learn everything you need to know with our Dread Cleanse Guide.

ALOE VERA GEL FOR PH AND ITCHINESS

One solution for itchy scalp with dreadlock maintenance would include very light use of a pure aloe gel. Aloe gel has a pH of 4.5-5.5 which is perfect for your scalp. This product can be found in any local store that carries hair and body products. FYI – We do not recommend coconut oil for dandruff since it only addresses the dryness of the scalp and not the causes of dandruff.

ESSENTIAL OILS TO REDUCE FUNGUS

Tea Tree Oil has antiseptic, antimicrobial, and antibacterial properties that can help kill off the yeast that can accumulate on the scalp. This particular oil also helps with treating eczema and psoriasis and helps reduce itchy scalp with dreads. Always mix Tea Tree Oil with a carier oil, never apply Tea Tree Oil directly to scalp!

Rosemary Oil also has anti-fungal and anti inflammatory properties which help increase circulation to the scalp. Rosemary Oil can be applied directly to the scalp.

Patchouli Oil has anti-fungal properties to fight off yeast and can also be applied directly to the scalp.

ADJUST WASH FREQUENCY

Everyone reacts differently to the frequency of washing due to a variety of factors. It’s best to gradually adjust your frequency to learn the right wash cycle for your scalp and dreadlocks.

If you wash your dreadlocks less than once every two weeks we highly recommend washing more frequently with a healthy shampoo. Washing once per week is recommended and common, however some people with very mature dreadlocks could stretch the wash cycle out to once every two weeks.

If you wash your dreadlocks more than twice a week, try to reduce that frequency gradually to once per week. Washing too frequently, especially with a harsh shampoo, may strip your scalp of too many oils and lead to a dry, itchy scalp with dreadlocks.

CHANGE SHAMPOO

Castile Soaps, Shampoos made with Saponified Oils, and most shampoos are far too high on the pH scale. Many commercial shampoos contain ingredients that you may be sensitive to without realizing it.

If you think you’re experiencing other scalp conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, or contact dermatitis you should at least try a different shampoo such as Free and Clear which is designed for such conditions.

Although we have yet to test and review Everclean Antidandruff Shampoo – Unscented – it is recommended by some of our peers. Feel free to give it a try and we’d also love to hear your feedback if you do try it out! We also have a Shampoo Guide with recommendations and more insight into choosing the right shampoo for your Dreadlocks.

INSTALL WATER SOFTENER SYSTEM FOR BETTER PH LEVELS

This solution is a drastic one, but it can make a surprisingly big impact in your daily life. It will significantly improve the long term health of your hair, give you softer skin, give you cleaner silverware, improve laundry, and increases the effectiveness of all soaps. How much do they cost? Water softener systems tend to range from $1,000-3,000 or even higher. This might seem unreasonable, but once you have one you’ll never want to go back to hard water again..

Bottom Line

Most people experience Dread Dandruff or at least an Itchy Scalp with Dreads at some point. So you shouldn’t feel like you’re fighting this battle alone! We hope you’ve learned a lot from this article and implore you to apply our recommendations to reduce your Itchy Dread Dandruff issues. If you have any questions or recommendations of your own feel free to leave a comment below.

The post Dread Dandruff – How to fix your itchy scalp with dreadlocks appeared first on Dreadlock Central.

What you’ll learn in this article (nav links):

What are Castile Soaps & Saponified Oils?
Why use Castile Soap for Dreadlocks?
What are the issues with Castile Soaps?
Are Castile Soaps actually Shampoo?
What are the safer alternatives?

What are Castile Soaps and Saponified Oils?

Castile Soaps are made by combining vegetable oils and lye to achieve a chemical reaction called Saponification resulting in a soap.

Saponified Oils, or Saponification is the chemical reaction of turning fats or oils into soap using lye. The term is literally translates to”turning into soap” in Latin.

Therefore any “shampoo” which is created with Saponified Oils is actually a Castile Soap and NOT a shampoo. This is easily overlooked by consumers who do not understand or read ingredient lists.

Common “shampoos” and castile soaps that people use on their dreadlocks include:

• Dr. Bronners
• Knotty Boy
• Dollylocks
• The Vital Goods
• Most Shampoo Bars
• And many more…

Why do people use Castile Soap for Dreadlocks?

Many people with Dreadlocks strive to go the natural route and hold the assumption that Castile Soaps like Dr Bronners for Dreads are a better alternative to Commercial Shampoos. Although many Commercial Shampoos have a laundry list of terrible ingredients for your hair and other ingredients that lead to build up in your dreadlocks, that doesn’t mean that ALL Shampoos are bad. This is a typical case of “throwing the baby out with the bathwater”.

Before we get into the science and details that explain why these soaps are often a bad choice for Dreadlocks, here are the main reasons why people choose Castile Soaps over Shampoo for their Dreads:

• Castile Soaps are made with as little as 3 ingredients
• Recipes can be found online and made at home with ease
• Castile Soaps are very biodegradable and wash away outdoors without harming the environment
• They’re Vegan friendly – created with Vegetable Oils and Lye
• Can be used for a very wide range of applications as a general cleaner

 How do Castile Soaps cause problems for Dreads?

PH IMBALANCES CAN CAUSE DAMAGE

The pH level of your hair and scalp is a very important aspect of Dreadlock Care. Surprisingly many products completely fail to take this crucial step of their product formulation into consideration.

Castile Soaps are typically registered around 8.9 on the pH scale. This level is far outside the range your scalp and hair should be. A high pH will open the cuticle of your hair leading to dry, brittle, and weaker hair causing damage over time.

A safe dreadlock shampoo will be formulated at a healthy pH range of 4.5-5.5 for your hair and scalp, resulting in much safer long term use.

NOT COLOR SAFE BECAUSE OF HIGH PH

The higher the pH level of the products you use (and the higher pH level of your water) will result in hair dye fading out quicker. Therefore, Castile Soaps high in pH should not be used if you want to preserve the color of your dyed hair.

LACK OF DILUTION BY THE USER

Most people using Castile Soaps such as Dr Bronner’s have no idea that they’re supposed to dilute Castile Soaps with water. Dr Bronner’s, for instance, is supposed to be diluted at a 1:10 ratio of soap to water before being used. And when it’s diluted it should be done so with purified water, since most tap water contains minerals resulting in hard water. Failing to dilute Castile Soaps properly will result in much higher pH levels. This is an extra step that is unnecessary with a properly formulated shampoo.

HARDWATER INCREASES PH LEVEL

In addition to the pH issues discussed above, water containing minerals (aka hard water) is typically higher in pH, which will exaggerate these issues even greater.

Generally speaking – the more minerals that are in your water the higher the pH will be. The cumulative effect of pH imbalance starts to become very clear when these factors are taken into account with already higher levels of pH in the products you use.

HARDWATER REDUCES CLEANSING PROPERTIES

Castile Soaps and many home-made “shampoo” recipes fall short of their ability to effectively clean hair in hard water. A good and true shampoo will contain a chelator which binds to minerals in hard water to reduce or prevent those minerals from interfering with the cleansing properties of the shampoo.

FILM AND DRYNESS

As a result of using Castile Soaps for Dreads many people are left with a film and dryness to their hair. Some people are aware of this, but many are not. We’ve experienced this on many of our clients who have no ideas it’s even happening. Lack of proper dilution will exaggerate this issue.

APPLE CIDER VINEGAR RINSE (or other acid) REQUIRED

The only solution for the pH issues listed above is to followup your Castile wash with an Acidic Rinse such as an Apple Cider Vinegar rinse. ACV can do wonders for your scalp and hair, but it’s an extra step that simply would not be needed if your shampoo was created at a healthy pH level to begin with.

LACK OF CONSISTENCY

Many of these problems are applicable for a lot of situations. However, some people seem to do just fine with Castile Soaps and Saponified Oils. If you dilute your soap, use water with low mineral levels and always followup with an ACV Rinse you may greatly reduce the issues listed above. However, most people fail to take the necessary precautions into consideration. Plus the water hardness levels vary greatly across regions. All of these points lead me to the recommendation of simply avoiding these Castile Soaps entirely. Just get a good shampoo and be done with it!

SUMMARY OF POINTS AND OUR OPINION

• Castile Soaps are often too high in pH. High pH levels have been scientifically proven to open the cuticles of the hair. Open cuticles result in dryness, brittleness, damage, film on the hair, and fading hair dye.
• Hard Water will exaggerate the pH imbalance. This will greatly reduce the cleansing properties and effectiveness of Castile Soaps
• Proper dilution with purified water and an acidic rinse are all necessary steps to reduce the issues related to Castile Soaps and Hard Water

Why on earth would anyone want to go through all this work just to attempt to prevent or reduce these issues? Why not just use a real shampoo that has been formulated by professional and experienced cosmetic chemists instead? Synthetic Surfactants in real shampoos greatly reduce or even eliminate the problems listed above while being far more effective at cleaning and they also rinse out very clean without residue. The problems with most Commercial Shampoos are that they often contain additional fragrances, dyes, waxes, and other ingredients that build up and are unnecessary and even harmful to Dreadlocks. But there are a handful of shampoos without these harmful ingredients that will be very effective at cleaning your scalp.

By definition and function – Castile Soaps can hardly be considered Shampoo

When considering a shampoo for your dreadlocks your main concerns should be:

• Can it clean my scalp and hair properly?
• Does it contain ingredients that will cause damage or buildup in my dreads?
• Will it close the cuticle on my hair?
• Is it balanced for a healthy pH of the scalp and hair?

Once you understand the true science behind Castile Soaps for Dreads it becomes pretty clear that in most cases people will answer ‘NO’ to most or all of the above questions. Therefore, making Castile Soaps a bad choice for healthy Dreadlock care.
 
 
 

Bottom line – What are the safer and healthier alternatives?

 
In our opinion, Castile Soaps and “Dreadlock Shampoos” that are made with Saponified Oils should NOT be considered a healthy option for dreadlocks.

“Natural” Dreadlock Shampoos tend to use very easy homemade recipes which lack research and testing. Most of these types of shampoo makers simply do not take the negative points above into consideration. In my opinion it’s pure laziness and a terrible disservice to the Dreadlock Community who faithfully puts their trust in these companies.

Don’t blindly assume something is good for your dreadlocks just because it’s advertised as “NATRUAL”. Always do your research to fully weigh the benefits and drawbacks to understand both sides of the equation. “Natural” “Safe” “Organic” products do not necessarily correlate to being truly safe and healthy for your scalp.

OUR RECOMMENDATION:

We recommend a real shampoo that has been made professionally. One that has been formulated by an experienced Cosmetic Chemist and tested and reviewed by Dreadlock Professionals. Our highest recommendations are Trader Joes, Giovanni, or Free and Clear. You can find these shampoos and more info on Shampoo guidelines with our Shampoo Guide.

The post Castile Soap for Dreadlocks – Not as safe and effective as you think appeared first on Dreadlock Central.